Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)

The cloud-forest town at the foot of Machu Picchu, reachable only by train or trail.

District: Machu Picchu Pueblo (Aguas Calientes)
Category: town / travel hub

Aguas Calientes -- officially named Machu Picchu Pueblo, but universally called by its old Spanish nickname 'hot waters' -- is the small town that every Machu Picchu visitor passes through, whether they are staying overnight or coming on a same-day trip. It sits at roughly 6,700 feet above sea level in a narrow gorge where the Urubamba (Vilcanota) River rushes between steep, jungle-covered mountains, several thousand feet lower than Cusco (about 11,150 feet) -- which is one reason many travelers actually feel physically better here than they did up in Cusco. There is no road connecting Aguas Calientes to Cusco or the rest of Peru: the only ways in are by train (PeruRail or Inca Rail, departing from Poroy or Ollantaytambo) or on foot, via the multi-day Inca Trail, which ends a short walk from town. This isolation is part of what keeps the town feeling like a real frontier outpost rather than a drive-up tourist stop. The town itself is compact and almost entirely pedestrian, built along both banks of the river and straddling the railway tracks, which run right through the middle of the main street. Narrow footbridges cross the river connecting the two halves of town, and most hotels, restaurants and shops are within a 5-10 minute walk of the train station. The name 'Aguas Calientes' comes from natural thermal springs on the edge of town, historically used by locals long before Machu Picchu tourism existed; they remain open to soak in today, though they are a simple, rustic municipal facility rather than a resort spa, and get crowded with backpackers in the late afternoon. For most travelers, Aguas Calientes is a means to an end -- the last stop before the bus ride up the switchback road to the Machu Picchu citadel gate -- and many spend only a few hours here before or after their visit. But the town rewards a bit of extra time: the plaza has a modest colonial-style church and a relaxed, small-town Andean atmosphere once the day-trip crowds move toward the bus queue in the morning and evening. The craft/artisan market, strung along the walkway to the bus stop, is one of the better places in the Cusco region for alpaca textiles, ceramics and souvenirs, and bargaining is expected. Because virtually the entire local economy depends on the handful of hours each traveler spends here, tourist pricing at restaurants and shops runs noticeably higher than in Cusco -- worth factoring in if budgeting a stopover.

Highlights

Aguas Calientes hot springs (Baños Termales) at the top of the town -- five sulphur pools around 100-115°F that give the town its name
Artisan/craft market lining the walkway to the Machu Picchu bus stop -- alpaca textiles, ceramics, souvenirs
Plaza de Armas of Aguas Calientes with its small church, the town's most relaxed corner away from the tourist rush
Pedestrian footbridges over the Urubamba (Vilcanota) River connecting both halves of town
Manuel Chávez Ballón Site Museum, a 20-30 minute forest walk from town, with roughly 250 Inca artifacts recovered from Machu Picchu and an orchid garden
Mariposario de Machu Picchu, a small butterfly house about 25 minutes' walk along the bus road, with guided visits
Train station and bus ticket office/queue for the shuttle up to the Machu Picchu citadel gate
Base for reaching Machu Picchu by train or on foot via the final stretch of the Inca Trail -- no road access from Cusco

Ideal for

Travelers overnighting before an early Machu Picchu visit
Same-day Machu Picchu visitors with a few spare hours before/after their entry time
Inca Trail hikers arriving on foot
Anyone wanting a lower-altitude night to rest after Cusco
Independent travelers who enjoy browsing artisan markets

Practical information

How to get there: No roads connect Aguas Calientes to Cusco -- arrival is only by train (PeruRail or Inca Rail, boarding at Poroy near Cusco, at Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley, or occasionally Urubamba) or on foot via the Inca Trail, which reaches town from the Sun Gate side. The train ride from Ollantaytambo takes roughly 1.5-2 hours; from Poroy/Cusco it runs closer to 3.5-4 hours. From Aguas Calientes, the Machu Picchu citadel itself is reached by a 25-minute shuttle bus up a switchback road (tickets sold in town) or a steep uphill walk of about 1.5-2 hours.
hot springs: The Aguas Calientes thermal baths sit at the upper (uphill) end of town, about a 10-15 minute walk from the plaza. Five linked pools of sulphurous water run roughly 100-115°F. They are a simple, no-frills municipal facility (bring your own towel and flip-flops; swimwear required), popular with backpackers especially in the late afternoon after a Machu Picchu visit -- go earlier in the day for a quieter soak.
where to eat: Aguas Calientes has dozens of tourist-oriented restaurants, most along the river and the train tracks; prices run higher than in Cusco given the town's captive, isolated market. Indio Feliz Bistro, a long-running French-Peruvian fusion restaurant right in Aguas Calientes, is a consistent local favorite worth a reservation. Cafe Inkaterra, the restaurant of the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel just outside the town center, is a quieter, more polished option in a garden setting. El Albergue, another excellent option from the same family of restaurants, is actually located at the Ollantaytambo train station along the route in -- a good stop for travelers connecting through there rather than an option within Aguas Calientes itself.
Good to know: The Machu Picchu bus ticket office and boarding queue sit beside the artisan market on Avenida Hermanos Ayar, generally open from very early morning (around 5:00 a.m.) into the evening; lines can run 30-60+ minutes in high season, longer for the first departure. Luggage lockers are available near the train station and the Machu Picchu bus stop, and most hotels will hold bags free of charge for guests doing a same-day citadel visit without an overnight stay -- useful since large bags are not allowed inside the archaeological site. ATMs exist in town but can run out of cash during peak season, so carry soles from Cusco. The climate is humid cloud forest -- expect rain at almost any time of year, especially November-March, so pack a light rain jacket even in the dry season. Early morning, before the day-trip trains arrive and after the bus queue crowds thin, is the most pleasant time to walk the town's streets and plaza.

Frequently asked questions

How do you get to Aguas Calientes?

There's no road connecting it to Cusco or the rest of Peru -- the only ways in are by train (PeruRail or Inca Rail, departing from Poroy or Ollantaytambo) or on foot via the multi-day Inca Trail, which ends a short walk from town.

Is Aguas Calientes at a lower altitude than Cusco?

Yes, it sits at roughly 6,700 feet, several thousand feet lower than Cusco's approximately 11,150 feet -- many travelers actually feel physically better here than up in Cusco.

How long should I plan to stay in Aguas Calientes?

Many travelers pass through in just a few hours before or after visiting Machu Picchu, but staying overnight gives extra time to enjoy the hot springs, the plaza, and the craft market at a relaxed pace.

Is it expensive to eat and shop in Aguas Calientes?

Prices at restaurants and shops run noticeably higher than in Cusco, since the local economy depends heavily on the few hours each traveler spends in town -- worth factoring into your budget.

What are the hot springs like?

The Baños Termales are a simple, rustic municipal facility with several sulphur pools, not a resort spa, and they tend to get crowded with backpackers in the late afternoon.

Is the town walkable?

Yes, it's compact and almost entirely pedestrian, with most hotels, restaurants and shops within a 5-10 minute walk of the train station.